Straight down the mountain next day to feast on a gorrrrgeous pancetta pecorino panini and latte. Mmmm, well earned. Moved on to the picturesque town of Vernazzo with its amphitheatre footprint. Truly lovely and a wonderful hike but crazy overrun with buslloads of tourists - of which yes I realize I am one! The many amateur hikers among them could often be overheard in many languages kvetching about the paths difficulty, conditions, questionable safety, grade...you name it.
Corniglia came next, yet another fine example of a fishing village frozen in time. I sat down to lunch at Hotel Cecio hugging a cliff and overlooking the sea below. The buffalo mozzarella and tomato salad proved a terrific starter after the morning hike along with a lip-smacking main of mussels that had just been harvested a few hours earlier at the pier below.
Apparently, the portion of the trail to Manarola was too dangerous to travel after the previous nightàs deluge so officials closed it down. A 5 minute train ride shuttled me to Manarola where I promptly found myself a spot to kip for the night. Met some lovely southern hemisphere folks and a Vancouverite so we all headed out together for a scrumptious seafood dinner.
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